Suzuki Swift Sport Mk1 info

I owned a 2008 Suzuki Swift Sport Mk1 for a while but have now sold it. However, I did assemble some useful information on it, which in keeping with the ethos of DataHamster, I am putting here in case it is of any use to anyone.

Wheels and tyres

Standard wheels

The standard OE wheels for the Swift Sport Mk1 are:
5 x 114.3, 6.5 x 17, offset 50, centre bore 60.1mm

After-market wheels

Some sources say that after-market wheels with offset 38-45 are ok, others say 35-40.
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If looking for cheap Winter wheels, many cars in Mazda’s line-up (such as the 3, 5, 6, 626 and Premacy) have the correct stud pattern, size and offset, but a 67.1mm bore. However, spigot rings to reduce the bore from 67.1mm to 60.1mm are readily available to buy (eg. on eBay).

Tyres

The standard tyres are 195/45 R17, but these are a little unusual and choices are limited.
You can no longer get the original fit Goodyear Eagle F1 tyres.

205/40 R17 should work fine, according to many internet sources, although I did not try this myself.

Stereo

Please see this post that I made on changing the standard fit stereo for an after-market one.

If you just want an AUX input, then you can get a neat little box of tricks that plugs into the standard fit stereo and makes it think it has the optional CD player fitted.
I still have mine and am happy to sell it. Contact me if interested (I will update this post when it is no longer available, so if you are reading this then assume I still have it!)

Washer motors

Ridiculously easy to change. Please see this post.

Suzuki Swift Sport Mk1 vs Mk2

I’ve owned a 2008 Suzuki Swift Sport Mk1 for a year or so now, but lately have been doing a lot of motorway miles and the short gearing of the Mk1 is really starting to grate. In case you are not aware, at 70mph (GPS-verified rather than speedometer) the engine is pulling 4000rpm in 5th gear and is quite a noisy and unrefined place to be. It can get very wearing.

Today I test drove a 2015 Suzuki Swift Sport Mk2, and here are my thoughts on it.

First the good things:
It feels like it is in the next class up, with a much more contemporary interior, nicer seats, much better ergonomics, much higher level of equipment, and all altogether much nicer place to be. The leather steering wheel is a nice bit of tactile luxury. It also has a lower seating position which I liked a lot. It makes the Mk1 look and feel very dated, basic and cheap.
The 6th gear is a very welcome addition, as is the more comfortable ride and much better sound proofing. It is far quieter, more refined and more comfortable than the Mk1. When I took it out onto the motorway and set the cruise control, valium sedatives improves mood, helps to remove symptoms of depression, improves sleep, https://valiumsedative.com/ online valium sedatives best seller, it felt like a car that could eat up the miles on my daily 100 mile round trip commute. Overall, a much more grown up car, and something you could use every day – far more so than the Mk1 which is extremely wearing on the motorway.

Now the bad things:
It has no character. All the fizz, vigour, vivaciousness and hooliganism of the Mk1 has been dialled back or lost altogether, and the Mk2 feels rather soulless and anodyne. The controls are way too light and lack the precision of the Mk1. Also completely gone is the way the Mk1 will pivot around you and put a smile on your face from doing something as trivial as a flick-flack through a mini-roundabout. It just all felt a little joyless in the Mk2. Furthermore, you forgive the lack of power in the Mk1 because it has such great throttle response, and because it is such fizzy fun. However, it’s much harder to forgive the Mk2 because, although it has more power and is lighter, the throttle response is much less sharp, there is more flywheel effect, there is less engine braking effect, and the whole thing feels more sluggish despite also feeling slightly more accelerative. I realise that this doesn’t really make much sense, but it’s palpable.

After I had finished the test drive and returned to the dealership, I realised that for the whole drive I had been trying to like the Mk2, and had been trying to convince myself that it would be ok if I bought it. There were rare fleeting glimpses of the Mk1 but they were mere echoes. When I left the dealership in my Mk1, it only took one mini-roundabout to get me grinning and thinking “God, I love the Mk1”. That pretty much said it all really. The clutch in the Mk1 felt really heavy after the Mk2 though, but the steering had so much more heft and precision, the gearbox was more snicketty, the brakes were more positive (although that might be down to the fact that I run EBC Yellow Stuff pads), and it just felt so much more alive.

Summary: (for those for whom the above is TL;DR)
The Swift Sport grew up and is a better daily driver for it. But also far less fun.

Fitting an aftermarket stereo to the Suzuki Swift

This post is a “How to” on fitting an aftermarket stereo to the 2nd generation Suzuki Swift (2004-2010)

In it I will tell you what you need to buy to do this and, just as importantly, what you do NOT need (but people will try to sell you anyway) and then I will move on to how to fit it.

The procedure was performed on a 2008 Swift Sport (UK right-hand drive model). However, I have seen photos of this procedure done on a left-hand drive USA model so the procedure is the same.

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Changing the washer motors on the Suzuki Swift

This post is a “How to” on changing the washer bottle motors on the 2nd generation Suzuki Swift (2004-2010)

Original washer motor

Original washer motor

Washer motor

Pattern part replacement

The procedure has been confirmed with a 2005 1.5 GLX 5d auto VVT and a 2008 Swift Sport, both UK right-hand drive models.

No representation is made as to the accuracy of the information in this article and any work undertaken on your own car is at your own risk.

This model of Swift uses two identical single-outlet motors; one for the rear and one for the front. They attach directly to the bottle and are push-fit, so are ridiculously easy to replace. They are also readily available and very cheap – expect to pay between £5 and £10 per motor for generic pattern parts on eBay. As you can see from the pics, it is pretty easy to identify the correct part as the outlets and electrical connector are fairly distinctive.

Access to the washer bottle and motors is via the inner wing on the front-right side. On RHD cars this is the driver’s side. I presume that on LHD cars it is in the same place.

It makes access a lot easier if you take the wheel off.

Remove the pop fasteners along the inner wing. On this car, the centre of the circular fastener is pulled out to release it and then the whole lot pulls out. Be careful not to damage them, however if you do then replacements are readily available on eBay.

Swift washer bottle

Swift washer bottle

Pull back the inner wing and the washer bottle is right there. You can clearly see the two identical motors. Rather logically, the one closer to the front of the car is for the front windscreen and the other for the rear screen.

The motor is a push fit directly into the bottle.

Pull off the electrical connector and tube hose of the one you wish to change, and then firmly pull the motor away from the bottle. Replacement is the reverse.