Changing the washer motors on the Suzuki Swift

This post is a “How to” on changing the washer bottle motors on the 2nd generation Suzuki Swift (2004-2010)

Original washer motor

Original washer motor

Washer motor

Pattern part replacement

The procedure has been confirmed with a 2005 1.5 GLX 5d auto VVT and a 2008 Swift Sport, both UK right-hand drive models.

No representation is made as to the accuracy of the information in this article and any work undertaken on your own car is at your own risk.

This model of Swift uses two identical single-outlet motors; one for the rear and one for the front. They attach directly to the bottle and are push-fit, so are ridiculously easy to replace. They are also readily available and very cheap – expect to pay between £5 and £10 per motor for generic pattern parts on eBay. As you can see from the pics, it is pretty easy to identify the correct part as the outlets and electrical connector are fairly distinctive.

Access to the washer bottle and motors is via the inner wing on the front-right side. On RHD cars this is the driver’s side. I presume that on LHD cars it is in the same place.

It makes access a lot easier if you take the wheel off.

Remove the pop fasteners along the inner wing. On this car, the centre of the circular fastener is pulled out to release it and then the whole lot pulls out. Be careful not to damage them, however if you do then replacements are readily available on eBay.

Swift washer bottle

Swift washer bottle

Pull back the inner wing and the washer bottle is right there. You can clearly see the two identical motors. Rather logically, the one closer to the front of the car is for the front windscreen and the other for the rear screen.

The motor is a push fit directly into the bottle.

Pull off the electrical connector and tube hose of the one you wish to change, and then firmly pull the motor away from the bottle. Replacement is the reverse.

 

 

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2 Responses to Changing the washer motors on the Suzuki Swift

  1. a Uruguay says:

    Hi! Many thanks for your post. I need to verify if the cable just disconnected from the pump or the pump is missing. I will remove the wheel and after that I need to remove the plastic part which is covering the engine? I don’t need to remove the front bumper, right? Thanks again.

    • DataHamster says:

      That’s correct. You just need to remove the wheel and the plastic inner wing (ie. the plastic cover behind the wheel). You do not need to remove the bumper.

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